Ivan hike and camping in the highlands of Iceland

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Published by Away With Ivan at November 18, 2025

My Summer Trek from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk: A Four-Day Journey Across Iceland’s Highlands

Hiking the Laugavegur Trail in mid-summer feels like stepping into another world — one shaped by fire, ice, and silence. It’s a journey that tests your legs, clears your mind, and fills you with a sense of something bigger than yourself.
In July, I spent four unforgettable days walking from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk, carrying my pack, my Fujifilm camera, and a heart that needed fresh air and new perspectives.

This is my story — part travel guide, part personal reflection — and everything I wish I'd known before starting the trek.

Day 1 - Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker

Distance: ~12 km | Time: 4–5 hrs | Difficulty: Moderate–Hard
Camp: Hrafntinnusker (basic facilities)

I began my journey at the Landmannalaugar campsite, surrounded by colourful rhyolite mountains that looked hand-painted. The air smelled like sulfur and adventure. The trail rises fast, climbing through the famous “Rainbow Mountains” — streaks of red, gold, green, and blue swirling across the hillsides.

With my camera in hand, I kept stopping to capture the other hikers silhouetted against this unreal backdrop. It felt like walking across a living painting.

A few hours in, the landscape changed dramatically. Colours faded. Snow patches began appearing. The world turned quiet. Soon, I reached a plateau of black obsidian fields — sharp volcanic glass everywhere — and for the first time, I felt truly alone in the highlands.

At Hrafntinnusker campsite, the wind cut through everything. There’s a hut, but the campsite itself is exposed and raw. Steam vents hiss from the ground. Rocks shine like wet metal. It feels like sleeping on another planet.
Harsh, but unforgettable.

Day 2 - Hrafntinnusker to Hvanngil

Distance: ~12 km | Time: 6–7 hrs | Difficulty: Moderate | Camp: Álftavatn

The next morning, the sky was a soft grey — the kind of grey that makes every colour richer. I crossed frozen patches, quiet valleys, and long highland stretches that felt endless. These were the hours where hiking becomes therapy.
Only my boots, my breath, and my thoughts.

Then came the rivers.

Cold. Pure. I removed my boots and stepped in barefoot. The shock was instant — like nature saying, “Wake up. Be here now.”

After 6–7 hours, the trail dropped down toward Álftavatn Lake, and the whole valley opened. A silver-blue lake, mountains glowing in late-summer light… one of those views that forces you to stop walking and just feel small.

The campsite here is a blessing after day one: a hut, facilities, and even a small café where a local Icelandic woman sells homemade cakes. She’s lived in the highlands for decades — tough, kind, and grounded.
Maybe it was the long day, maybe the hunger, but her cake tasted like pure comfort.

I rested at Álftavatn but decided to push on a bit further to Hvanngil, a small, sheltered campsite with a shop and a peaceful atmosphere. That’s where I spent the night — tired, content, surrounded by good energy from hikers I’d met along the way.

Day 3 — Hvanngil to Emstrur

Distance: ~15 km | Time: 5–6 hrs | Difficulty: Moderate | Camp: Emstrur (Botnar)

This section of the trail shows the highlands in full transition.
Life returns — green moss, small rivers, gentle valleys — but the volcanic scars remain everywhere.

Some stretches felt like walking on the moon.
Others like walking into an ancient story.

I crossed more rivers, stopped to photograph long black deserts shaped by old eruptions, and watched distant glaciers shimmering. The silence was huge — the kind you feel in your chest.

Approaching Emstrur, the trail dipped into canyons and rolling hills. The campsite is simple but sits in one of the most dramatic landscapes of the whole trek. A short walk away is Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon, a massive, hidden gorge you can stand above — one of Iceland’s best-kept secrets.

That night I cooked a simple meal, watched the mountains shift colour, and shared stories with hikers I felt like I’d already known for years. These are the moments that make long treks special.

Day 4 - Emstrur to Pórsmörk

Distance: ~15 km | Time: 6–7 hrs | Difficulty: Moderate–Hard (long day) | Camp: Þórsmörk/Básar

The final day felt like walking through the history of Iceland.
Black sand deserts… melting glaciers… deep valleys… endless views.

Step after step, I could feel the landscape changing.
More greenery. More rivers. More life.

Eventually, the trail led into a region of waterfalls stacked one after another, some hidden, some roaring in the open. I couldn’t resist — I set up camp near the water and spent the evening photographing the entire valley as the light softened.

Reaching Þórsmörk felt emotional. A sacred place. Lush birch forests, deep canyons, and views of Eyjafjallajökull towering above — the volcano that stopped the world in 2010.

It’s the perfect ending to a journey shaped by fire, water, and patience.

I arrived tired, dusty, and deeply grateful.
It wasn’t just a hike anymore — it was a reset.
A reminder that even when life feels chaotic, the path forward is always one step at a time.